Zhengshan Xiaozhong (正山小種)

tea imagery: Bear by the river

Zhengshan Xiaozhong is a black tea associated with Tongmu in the Wuyi Mountains. Its traditional form has a pine-smoke aroma, but unsmoked tea is also sold under the name today. This page focuses on the modern unsmoked style, where fruity, floral and honeyed notes are easier to notice.

History

“Zhengshan” refers to the original mountain area, distinguishing it from other producing regions; it is not the name of a separate mountain. Local seed-grown tea populations, known as caicha or qizhong, provide the leaf. After withering and rolling, the leaf oxidises and is then dried. The unsmoked version omits pine-smoke treatment. It is a later development, rather than a predecessor of smoked Lapsang. When buying, ask for the growing area, producer and smoking details. “Small variety” does not mean the tea must consist only of tiny buds.

The bear by the river is an artistic image for our card. The tea’s own origins lie in Tongmu’s gardens and workshops.

Terroir

Tongmu area, Wuyi Mountains, Fujian. Elevation varies between gardens; ask for the specific location. Acidic red and yellow-red mountain soils. Humid mountain climate with rain and mist. Miaowan and Jiangdun are well-known production areas. Leaves and the maker’s work also shape flavour.

Leaf

dry leaf: Twisted dark-brown leaves; size and bud proportion vary.

aroma in a warmed vessel: In unsmoked tea, floral, honeyed or fruity notes.

aroma after brewing: Sweet fruit aroma, sometimes suggesting dried fruit.

taste: Gentle sweetness, with possible longan, other dried fruit, flowers and honey. Overlong infusions become astringent.

finish: Notice the lingering sweetness and clarity of flavour as the tea cools a little.

Properties

Traditional descriptions: Traditional accounts usually classify black tea as warming.

What to know: Oxidation changes leaf polyphenols and aroma compounds, developing black tea’s colour and flavour.

Over a cup of tea: For exploring fruity black tea or comparing it with a smoked version.

Caffeine: Contains caffeine. An unsmoked process and sweet flavour do not make it a bedtime tea.

How to brew

A porcelain gaiwan or small 120 ml teapot. 4 g per 120 ml at 95 °C. Try freshly boiled water if the flavour is too light. Time for each infusion: 20 s, 15 s, 20 s, 30 s, 45 s.

When to drink

Morning or daytime. Year-round. When you want a sweet-tasting, fruity black tea. Biscuits or mild cheese; taste it plain first. On your own or at a shared tasting

What to notice

Smell the warm gaiwan lid.
Identify one fruity or floral note.
When comparing with a smoked tea, taste the unsmoked one first.

Questions and answers

How do you brew Zhengshan Xiaozhong?

A porcelain gaiwan or small 120 ml teapot. 4 g per 120 ml at 95 °C. Try freshly boiled water if the flavour is too light. Time for each infusion: 20 s, 15 s, 20 s, 30 s, 45 s.

What does Zhengshan Xiaozhong taste like?

Gentle sweetness, with possible longan, other dried fruit, flowers and honey. Overlong infusions become astringent.

How much caffeine is in Zhengshan Xiaozhong?

Contains caffeine. An unsmoked process and sweet flavour do not make it a bedtime tea.

What else should I know about Zhengshan Xiaozhong?

Oxidation changes leaf polyphenols and aroma compounds, developing black tea’s colour and flavour.