Gongfu cha at home: sharing tea with friends

Gongfu brewing uses a small gaiwan or teapot, plenty of leaf and several short infusions. Each cup gives you a chance to notice changes in aroma, strength and aftertaste.

The practice is closely associated with Chaozhou in Guangdong, where oolong is the traditional choice. Families and schools have their own methods. Here is a simple home setup for two or three people.

Gongfu tea preparation in Shanghai.
Photo: PierreSelim · CC BY 3.0

Steps

Choose vessels that suit your group. Use a 100–150 ml gaiwan or small teapot, a serving pitcher called a gongdaobei, and small cups. The pitcher should hold the whole infusion. Leaves take up space and absorb water, so a 100 ml gaiwan will yield less than 100 ml of tea. Serve small portions so everyone gets some.
Set up the table. Keep your kettle, a bowl for discarded water, and a cloth within reach. An ordinary tray can hold the teaware; only pour water onto it if it is designed to collect it. Warm the clean gaiwan or pot and the serving pitcher with hot water, then empty them.
Choose and weigh your tea. For a first session, try an oolong you already know. Put the dry leaves on a small dish for guests to look at. Start with 4–5 g of tea per 100 ml. To work out the capacity, measure the water your empty vessel holds at a level you can comfortably pour from. Pu-erh, black tea, and white tea can also be brewed this way, with timing and temperature adjusted for the particular tea.
Make the first infusion. If your oolong has no brewing instructions, try water at 95 °C and start pouring out 10–15 seconds after you begin adding water. This is a starting point: pour sooner if it is too strong. Rolled oolongs and pu-erh are often given a quick hot-water rinse first, but rinsing every tea is unnecessary. Without a rinse, the dry leaves may need a little longer.
Serve and taste. Drain the infusion into the pitcher, then divide it between the cups. Leave space below the rim so the cups are comfortable to hold. The pitcher helps even out the strength. Without one, pour a little into each cup in turn, repeating until the vessel is empty. Let the tea cool slightly, and ask whether your guests like the strength.
Adjust as you go. If the strength is right, repeat the same timing. If the leaves have opened up and the tea tastes stronger, reduce the steeping time; when the flavour fades, steep longer. Before taking a break, drain the brewing vessel. Add fresh water when everyone is ready for more, and stop when the tea is no longer enjoyable or your guests have had enough.

Tips

One tea is enough for a first session. It is easier to adjust the brewing and compare infusions.
If the water cools, heat it back to your chosen temperature.
Afterwards, remove the leaves, wash the teaware as appropriate for its material, and let it dry with the lid off.