Dong Ding (凍頂)
archetype: Fox in the autumn forest
Sly honeyed sweetness, an autumn forest, a russet tail among the ferns.
History
Dong Ding is one of the oldest Taiwanese oolongs and effectively the founder of the whole 'island' style. In 1855 the scholar Lin Fengchi brought back from his examinations in Fujian cuttings of the qing xin (青心) bush — and from these grew the first gardens on the slope of the 'frozen peak' Dong Ding in Lugu county. The leaf is oxidised to 25–40 %, rolled into pearls, and roasted over charcoal in several passes — hence the characteristic honey-caramel note and the warm toast that distinguishes Dong Ding from the lighter high-mountain oolongs.
Terroir
In the neighbouring villages Shanlinxi and Linhu similar oolongs are made, but it is the leaf from the Dong Ding slope that gives the densest honey base.
Leaf
honey, roasted sweet potato, warm wood, cinnamon; in long infusions — dark caramel and dried fruit a long sweet tail, settling in the chest and lower back; the aftertaste holds for 30–40 minutes
Properties
rich in roasting melanoidins and natural sugars; tones gently, favourable for digestion and sleep (if drunk no later than early evening) warm, settling in the chest and lower back; felt as a cosy heaviness after a long day moderate (35–50 mg)
Brewing ritual
a 110 ml gaiwan or a small yixing pot; 95 °C, soft; 7 g / 110 ml. 12s — the honey note wakes, a faint roast; 10s — the peak: honey, baked sweet potato, warm wood; 12s — the autumn forest: leaves, cinnamon, warm earth; 18s — the tail: a long honey sweetness in the throat; 25s — the finale: vanilla, dried fruit, a faint echo; 40s — a warm trail — the fox has already gone.
When to drink
late day and early evening — especially at sunset. autumn and early winter. when you want comfort, when autumn sits in your chest and you don't want loud sensations