Taiwanese tea: finding a style you enjoy

Taiwan is known for oolong, but makes other tea types too. For an introduction, compare fresh floral teas, teas with a noticeable roast, and honeyed, fruity styles. A name on the packet may refer to a place, a plant variety or a processing style.

Tea plantations in Pinglin, Taiwan.
Photo: Bernard Gagnon · CC BY-SA 3.0

Jin Xuan oolong from Alishan, Taiwan.
Photo: Difference engine · CC BY-SA 4.0

Gaoshan describes elevation

Gaoshan usually refers to tea grown above 1,000 metres. Alishan, Lishan and Shanlinxi are well-known place names; Qing Xin and Jin Xuan are plant varieties. Both kinds of information are useful.

Lightly oxidised, lightly roasted oolongs with floral aromas and a smooth texture are common here. Elevation alone does not guarantee creaminess, freedom from astringency or quality. Season, leaves and processing matter too.

Baozhong and Dong Ding

Wenshan Baozhong is usually lightly oxidised, with long twisted leaves and a floral aroma. Not all Taiwanese oolong is rolled into balls.

Dong Ding is associated with Lugu in Nantou. More roasted examples can have nutty, baked and caramel notes. Roasting varies; the name does not guarantee one process or charcoal firing. Ask about the particular batch.

Oriental Beauty and black tea

Dong Fang Mei Ren, or Oriental Beauty, is a heavily oxidised oolong made with young leaves and buds fed on by small leafhoppers. The plant’s response and subsequent processing help create honeyed, fruity aromas. This does not establish organic certification or the absence of pesticide residues. Other Taiwanese teas also use leafhopper-affected material.

For black tea, try Hong Yu, also known as Taiwan Tea No. 18 or Ruby: its aroma can suggest mint and cinnamon. The name identifies a plant variety, not added ingredients.

“Milk oolong” and GABA

Jin Xuan, Taiwan Tea No. 12, can have naturally creamy notes. However, “milk oolong” is also used commercially for flavoured teas, so check the ingredients.

GABA tea undergoes a low-oxygen processing stage that increases its GABA content. This describes processing, not a promise of better sleep or treatment. The tea still contains caffeine.

Buying and brewing

Start with small samples. Ask about growing location, producer, season, plant variety and roast. Price alone cannot confirm or disprove a claimed elevation.

For rolled oolong in a gaiwan, try 4 g per 120 ml at 95 °C. Allow 25–30 seconds from starting to fill to starting to pour, then drain fully. Once leaves open, the next infusion may need less time. For Baozhong or Oriental Beauty, try 3 g per 120 ml at 90 °C for 20 seconds. These are starting points: steep weak tea longer and strong tea for less time or with fewer leaves.

For a mug, use a roomy infuser with 2–3 g per 250 ml at 90–95 °C. Taste after 2 minutes and remove the leaves at your preferred strength. Store tightly sealed, away from light, damp, heat and smells.

Questions and answers

Does higher elevation mean better tea?

No. Elevation affects growing conditions but cannot replace good leaves and processing. Comparing samples is more useful than comparing altitude figures alone.

Do I need a special clay pot?

No. Porcelain or glass works well for exploring and comparing aromas. A clay pot can work too; choose a vessel that drains easily and gives the leaves room to open.